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Q: There are so many different varieties of tomato plants to choose from. How do I know what's best?
A. With all the varieties available, the choices may seem overwhelming. One way to narrow the field is by the size of plant or type of tomato. Patio or dwarf tomatoes are very compact in their growth and typically have small fruit. If you are a fan of large-fruited types where a single slice will cover a whole sandwich, look for beefsteak type tomatoes. Another option is the small pear-shaped tomato. They are typically very meaty and less juicy and often used in making tomato sauce and paste. Cherry tomatoes are generally abundant producers; a single plant will usually supply a whole family with fresh fruit. Some people prefer orange or yellow tomatoes or heirloom varieties. Whichever variety you choose, it's hard to go wrong with fruit fresh from the plant.
Q: I've heard that you can plant tomatoes by laying them sideways. Is this true?
A. When purchasing tomato plants, select stocky plants about six to ten inches tall. Since roots will form along the buried portion of the stem, the transplants should be planted deep enough that only two or three sets of leaves remain above ground. If your plants are tall and leggy, they can be planted horizontally; the roots formed along the buried portion of the stem will provide added stability.
Q: What is the difference between a determinate and an indeterminate tomato?
A. For tomatoes determinate and indeterminate refer to the growth habit of the plant. Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain size, produce a crop of tomatoes and then decline. An indeterminate tomato vine continues to grow and produce fruit all season until killed by frost or disease. This type of tomato benefits from some sort of support or staking to keep the fruit off the ground.
Q: I only have a patio, but I'd like to grow fresh vegetables. What vegetables can I grow in containers?
A. Container gardening is a great way to grow vegetables! Plant breeders and seed companies are breeding vegetables specifically for container culture, and often these varieties have a compact growth habit. However, you don't have to limit yourself only to varieties that include "patio" in their name. Tomatoes, peppers, bush beans, Swiss chard and even radishes are good candidates for container culture. Experiment with different types of lettuce - leaf lettuce and the miniature Tom Thumb butter head are a couple to try. If you have enough room, squash is an option. And don't forget the traditional windowsill plants, herbs. A note of caution: when growing vegetables, be sure your container has never held anything that would be toxic to plants or people.
Marge Reiber
Colorado State University Extension
Larimer County Master Gardener
Q: I've heard that mulch helps retain water. Can you tell me what I can use?
A. Yes, mulch helps reduce evaporation from the soil surface and can cut water usage by 25-50%. Mulch also helps stabilize the soil, prevents or moderates soil compaction, controls weeds, moderates soil temperature and gives your garden a finished look. Some good organic mulch includes wood/bark chip mulch, straw, dried leaves, and grass clippings. Putting rock mulch over black plastic is very undesirable for planting areas because it can reduce air and water infiltration into the root zone.
Q: How do I know if I have thatch in my lawn?
A. Thatch is a tight, brown, spongy, organic layer of both living and dead grass roots and stems that accumulates above the soil surface. It can be easily measured by removing a small piece of turf. Interactions between environmental and soil conditions, grass species and management practices (irrigation, mowing, fertilization) influence the rate and extent of thatch accumulation. Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch accumulation and should be returned to the lawn during mowing to recycle the nutrients contained in them. Core cultivating/aerating is a beneficial thatch management technique because it helps improve the root zone environment while simultaneously helping to control thatch accumulation.
Q: There are seed stalks on my rhubarb-what do you do with them?
A. Remove seed stalks and stop harvesting rhubarb when temperatures rise above 85 degrees. Remove old stalks at the base, giving room for new stalks to grow. Try not to remove more than 1/4 of the stalks at one time. Rhubarb is a poor competitor for water and nutrients so keep the plant mulched.
For information on a variety of horticulture topics visit www.planttalk.org, or call the Colorado State University Extension office in your county.
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