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Q: How important is the species and variety of grass seed in creating a beautiful lawn?
A. Over 200 different varieties of Kentucky bluegrass are offered by seed companies throughout the U.S. Low priced seed will likely have a low germination rate and quite a bit of weed seed and fillers. Avoid buying seed with a VNS (variety not stated) label. These factors often make it more expensive than high quality seed. Look for aggressive varieties of Kentucky bluegrass that require lower maintenance, such as South Dakota Certified, Nassau, Park, Ram 1, Rugby, Nugget, Newport, Aquilla, Monopoly and Nassau. Available single variety seeds include Midnight-KBG, Midnight II, Brilliant, Blue Ridge, Kenblue and Moonshine. All these are hardy, disease resistant, and they form dense, quick-filling turf. Many of these new varieties can be cut shorter, have better color and are more disease resistant. Be aware of incompatible landscape features such as a high quality lawn that is heavily shaded. For 2007, Pennington's MidAmerica Super Shade containing fine fescues and bluegrass is excellent. If it doesn't survive, you need to thin out your trees or shrubs. Also consider reseeding as it is an inexpensive and easier job than lawn renovation. Different varieties can be mixed without harming the existing grass.
Q: What are the best methods of seeding and sodding my lawn?
A. First consider the various Kentucky bluegrass seed and sod varieties, as well as weed prevention and recommendations for fertilizing the new lawn. Broadcast seed at the rate of 1 - 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Rake lightly, restrict traffic and water lightly several times a day for 14 days. Or you can lay sod that matches adjacent varieties; sod must be planted during the grass growing season. Before placing sod, wet down the ground, then butt the ends of sod strips working from the sodded area to the open soil. Position it, then pack it down so rhizomes can entwine into the soil. Water within 30 minutes of laying he sod, irrigate each day for 12 days, and then begin to taper off watering. Within three weeks, the sod should be established. When the lawn is established, mow at a height of 2 ½ to 3 inches. Fertilize at the rate of 5 pounds nitrogen per 1,000 square feet and water to prevent dry spots.
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Elizabeth A. Wuerslin
Colorado State University Extension
Larimer County Master Gardener
Q: I love fresh strawberries from the garden, but I don't have the space in my yard to plant them. Any suggestions?
A. Plant a strawberry pot. Strawberry pots have characteristic "pockets" on the sides of the pot. They are generally one to two feet tall and ceramic. Many garden centers carry them and they are ideal for the patio and deck. Try to find one with six or more pockets so that you can maximize your harvest.
For a good strawberry crop, also cut a piece of PVC pipe to the height of the pot. Drill lateral holes in the pipe every 2" or so. The pipe can be placed in the center of the pot to carry water and fertilizer to help nourish the plants as they grow.
Before planting, soak the pot in water for an hour before you plant your strawberries-doing this will limit the amount of water that is soaked up by the pot, allowing the water to be absorbed by plant roots.
Choose strawberries that are Everbearing or Day Neutral. These varieties will set fruit all summer if they have eight hours of sun a day. Another choice is Alpine strawberries, known for their petite fruit but full-sized flavor.
Fill your pot with soil and layer the strawberries, also known as "pips," in the pockets, trying not to smash the roots. Make sure to plant the PVC pipe in the center of the pot with the first layering. Water the container well and continue to fertilize every two weeks via your PVC pipe. Your efforts will be rewarded in June with delicious strawberries right from your garden pot.
For more information on growing strawberries, read Colorado State University Fact Sheet #7.000, "Strawberries for the Home Garden" by visiting ext.colostate.edu.
For information on a variety of horticulture topics visit www.planttalk.org, or call the Colorado State University Extension office in your county.
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