Avocado trees are fun and easy to start indoors. Simply suspend a seed in a glass of water, placing three or four toothpicks in the side about half-way down the seed. Then, place the seed, flat end down, in a container, and add enough water to cover the lower half of the seed.

Put the container in a sunny window or some other well-lighted spot. Add water as needed to keep the bottom half of the seed in water at all times. After a few weeks, a small root will appear in the water and signs of a small, tender shoot will appear at the pointed end. Later, when the stem pushes through the top of the seed, plant the seed in a well-drained potting medium.

Avocado plants will grow with water, fertilizer and light. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil evenly moist. When an avocado plant is over-watered, it develops curled leaves and soft stems. When under-watered, it wilts and develops dried leaves, which eventually fall off. Give the plant a small amount of houseplant fertilizer every three months, and good, indirect light every day.

Avocado plants eventually grow into trees that require lots of space to grow. If your home is small, you may want to start a new plant every three or four years. However, it may take as long as 20 years or more for your tree to bear fruit.

Summer-flowering bulbs begin to bloom when spring-flowering bulbs begin to fade. Summer-flowering bulbs produce plants that generally don't tolerate frosts well, but provide color and a long-lasting bloom display. These plants prefer partial to full shade.

For best selection and optimum results, purchase bulbs, corms, tubers, rhizomes and roots early in the spring. They're available through catalogues, Garden centers and nurseries. Purchase only bulbs that are large, firm and free of defects. Some of the most popular summer-blooming bulbs include caladium, calla lily, canna, dahlia, gladiolus and tuberous begonia.

Caladiums are often chosen for their foliage, which can be white, pink, red or green. These plants do best in shady areas or containers and prefer a highly organic, moist growing medium. After killing frost, dig up these tubers and store them in a cool, dry place until next spring.

Cannas provide a lush, almost tropical look to flower borders, and are available in many colors and heights. For best results, plant these rhizomes six inches deep and approximately 18 inches apart. After killing frost, dig up the rhizomes and store them in dry peat moss in a cool, dry, ventilated place until the following spring.

Dahlias are a long-lasting flower with showy blooms that range in color and size to fit most cutting Gardens. Plant dahlias two to three inches deep only after the last spring frost. In autumn, allow the roots to remain in the ground for two weeks after a killing frost so they can thoroughly ripen before you dig them up. Dig carefully so that the roots do not break apart. Dry the roots, then pack them in perlite or vermiculite and store in a cool, dry place until spring.

Gladiolus, which can be used for cut flowers, are available in many colors and perform well in Colorado. For best results, plant these corms three to six inches deep after the danger of frost has passed. Do not allow them to go to seed, because it will adversely affect corm development. When the tops die back, dig and sort the corms for storage.

Tuberous begonias may be single or double flowering, and are available in white, pink, yellow, red and bicolor. To achieve optimum results, plant these tubers one to two inches deep in a shady location that is high in organic matter. Keep the site relatively moist, but not overly wet. After the first frost, dig up the tubers and store them in sawdust in a cool place until spring.

Calla lilies are best known as a cut flower. They are easy to grow in partial shade or as a container plant. Handle these rhizomes much as you would tuberous begonias.

When designing a landscape, keep in mind activities that might take place in that space. Compare how outdoor space is currently used with how it would ideally be used. Think about how to move through a landscape and which pathways can't be changed, such as routes to the garbage, mailbox or cars. Also consider trees, fences and other elements that should be incorporated into the landscape.

Next, consider the sun and how it moves around a landscape. Are there places in the landscape that should be shaded in the summer, but open to sunlight in the winter? Also consider soil types and water availability. Choose a design and plants according to these factors.

Compare landscaping ideas with the budget set for the project. A general rule of thumb for estimating the amount of money one should invest in a landscape is approximately 10 percent of the value of the home. This amount includes not only plants, but irrigation systems and any elements such as a deck, patio or fencing. The landscape can be developed over several years as the budget allows.

Once all has been considered, photograph the area to be landscaped and draw a birds eye view of it on paper. Plot the new landscape design onto another piece of paper, making sure that the new landscape design is convenient.

There are some important considerations to make when deciding which shrubs and perennials to plant in your Garden:

1. Determine the amount of sun the Garden will receive. There are plants for every light situation except total darkness.
    
2. Choose plants that have the same water requirements and match them to your soil conditions.
    
3. Pick out the plants whose full mature size will be appropriate to the place where they are planted.
    
4. Choose plants with foliage that is attractive for a long season.
    
5. Choose plants that display your favorite color scheme and choose a variety of plants that bloom each month from late February to November.

By visiting public Gardens, Garden centers, nurseries and by studying seed and plant catalogs regularly, you will become acquainted with the plants that bloom and provide the color you like. To aid you in making decisions, make a chart by month, choosing one or two "star" plants and several "supporting players" for each month. This same technique can be used to identify plants with fall color and winter form that you would like to integrate into your landscape.

Paperwhite narcissus are one of the easiest bulbs to force for cut flowers or ornamental displays in the home from December to March. They are a form of daffodil that can be forced without a chilling period.

To force paperwhites, fill a bulb pan with about one to two inches of potting soil, then position the bulbs in the soil so they are nearly touching each other with pointed end up. Add enough potting soil so that only the top half of the bulbs remain exposed, then water well.

Paperwhites can also be forced in shallow decorative containers with pebbles and water, or in water alone. Place the bulb pans or decorative containers in a bright, cool room until the shoots are one to two inches tall. Then move the pots to a warmer location. Bulbs started in a warm room have a tendency to become leggy and the leaves flop over. No fertilizer is needed to force paperwhites.

Paperwhites bloom four to eight weeks after potting. For a continuous show of color, start new pots of bulbs every couple of weeks throughout fall and winter. They bloom only once, so discard bulbs after they have flowered.

Pests and disease problems do occur in paperwhites. The most prevalent is a basal rot caused by Fusarium that infects the basal plate of the bulb and results in a mushy brown decay. Immediately discard affected bulbs. To reduce the possibility of encountering problems from basal rot, purchase bulbs that are free of blemishes and firm to the touch.

The holidays are over. The Christmas tree is bedraggled and looks like a terrible fire hazard. It's time to get it out of the house, but, please don't just put it out for garbage pickup. Many Colorado municipalities have tree recycling programs. Some have you place them on the curb along with your normal waste pickup. Others have drop-off sites where the trees are chipped and made into mulch, which is available free in the spring. Call your local recycling agency for details.

You can also recycle the boughs and use them as mulch in your own yard. Just cut the boughs off the trunk or larger branches and place them on your perennial beds. The boughs will protect dormant plants from drying out as fast as if they were fully exposed. They'll also keep the plants dormant longer because the soil temperature won't rise as quickly on sunny winter days. Be sure to remove the boughs as the plants start to emerge from dormancy. Then chop boughs into small pieces and add them to your compost pile to provide some acidity.

Boughs are fine for plants that should remain dormant all winter like peonies, hostas and delphiniums, but you don't need boughs for our climate-adapted plants like penstemons, buckwheats or iris. They continue to grow in our sunny winter weather, and are adapted to the vagaries of precipitation our rapidly changing climate offers.

Christmas trees are a wonderful way to start the new recycling year.

Most modern hybrid roses need some winter protection because their parents are of subtropical origin.

If roses have grown excessively, they may be subject to snow and wind damage. In November, prune all tall plants by one-third of their height. Otherwise, mid-April is best.

In December, remove all leaves and debris from the ground. This will help prevent the spread of some diseases. When the night temperatures drop to 20 degrees Fahrenheit for several days, mound soil over the rose crown. The soil should be eight to ten inches deep. Bring soil in from other parts of the Garden to avoid disturbing the roots of the plant being covered.

Other suitable mulching materials include pine needles, boughs, leaves, rotted manure or sawdust. Mulching is very important because it keeps the soil at a uniform temperature, reducing the possibility of early growth that might be injured by frost. The mulch should be removed gradually in the spring after the danger of hard frost has passed. Climbing roses can benefit from being completely covered with burlap during the winter to prevent desiccation from wind.

Selecting an appropriate rose for this region, choosing the proper planting site and following good cultural practices will minimize insect and disease problems.

Fall leaves are a valuable resource because they keep garden soil productive. By following a few tried and true composting techniques, you can optimize fall-leaf composting.

The minimum size for compost bins is three feet by three feet by three feet. Bins larger than six feet across may restrict oxygen infiltration and slow decomposition.

It's best to mix some nitrogen into the leaves as you add them to the compost Leaves are high in carbon, which makes great compost, but they're comparatively low in nitrogen, and that's what decomposing bacteria feed on. You can add nitrogen in the form of fertilizer or fresh green organic matter. Just add one-quarter to one-half cup of standard lawn fertilizer per bushel, or add one part dry leaves with two parts fresh grass clippings or similar green Garden debris. If you use a fertilizer, be sure to select one that doesn't contain any weed killers.

As you add leaves to the compost, moisten them until they're the consistency of a wet sponge. Check the compost regularly and water to maintain adequate moisture content. Moisture is slow to soak through a leaf pile and is essential for decomposition. Be careful not to over-water, because you don't want the leaves to be soggy.

Whole leaves are better for compost than leaves that are shredded or mulched with a lawn mower. Finely chopped leaves may pack down excessively in the compost bin, restricting oxygen infiltration necessary for decomposition.

By following these simple guidelines, you can produce fall-leaf compost by late spring. An unattended a pile of leaves may take two to three years to decompose.

Colorado's relatively warm days and cold nights, extreme temperature fluctuations and drying winds can wreak havoc with many of our commonly planted perennials.

Generally, after the first hard frost, the foliage of most perennials starts to die and wither. There are two philosophies on when to remove the dead foliage. One approach is to immediately remove the dead foliage. Many perennials will suffer no harm as a result, as long as you exercise great care when applying mulch. The other approach is waiting until spring to remove dead foliage. Always remove diseased foliage to discourage the spread of leaf-spot diseases and fungal problems.

Dehydration is a common problem when snowless winters occur. A layer of mulch several inches thick helps retain soil moisture. This mulch should be coarse and loose to permit air movement to roots. Root tissues continue to metabolize in the winter and requires oxygen for this process to take place. Reduced soil oxygen level increases the aggressiveness of many soil pathogens. Mulches which pack down should be avoided.

Watering at least monthly under dry winter conditions recharges the soil profile with moisture critical to plant survival.

Whether you decide to remove dead foliage in the fall or wait until spring, mulches provide the best protection for your perennials. Many types of mulches are available, and no matter which you choose, there are a few guidelines you should follow.

Mulches do a better job of insulating plants when space is allowed for air to circulate. Mulch that packs down to a dense mass during winter can cause mildews and molds to form. Shredded leaves from deciduous trees and pine boughs from discarded Christmas trees offer great winter protection. A good organic compost used as mulch is also effective and can be used as a soil amendment in the spring.

Established perennials and bulbs benefit from mulches that are applied after the ground freezes, because mulches don't allow soil temperatures to fluctuate as much throughout the winter.

Mulch should not be removed too early in spring or plants will begin to grow too early. Plants located on the south side of a building or wall will emerge sooner than those in other areas, but may be subject to spring frost damage. Some perennials can be damaged by drying winter winds and western sun. Fencing can be used to effectively to protect plantings.