If you've ever seen the massive size of a six-pointed amaryllis bloom, you won't soon forget it. These eight-to-ten-inch blooms come in a variety of colors including red, pink, orange, salmon, white and bicolors. Doubles and miniatures are also available.

There couldn't be a more foolproof indoor plant to grow than amaryllis, and they're all the more welcome, because they generally bloom in mid to late winter. The flower is started from bulbs that are nearly the size of grapefruit. The large the bulbs, the larger and more numerous the flowers. Bulbs are commonly sold in pre-planted starter kits.

To start a bulb, plant it in a loose planting mix. Use a pot that's only slightly larger than the bulb, and position the bulb half way out of the soil. Water thoroughly and allow to drain. When soil is two-thirds dry, put plants on a watering routine. Expose plants to at least a half-day of bright light, and fertilize once a month.

On standard-sized amaryllis, the flower stem emerges before the leaves, grows rapidly to a height of 12 to 24 inches, and begins a sequence of blooms that last about a month. After bloom, cut the flower stem off just above the top of the bulb, but don't cut the leaves.

If you're growing amaryllis plants to produce blooms for years to come, water them as you would any houseplant for the remainder of the winter. During the summer, you can keep plants indoors in bright light, or set them outside. Be sure to continue fertilizing. Put plants out after all danger of frost is past, and bury pots in a partially shaded location. In early September, bring plants indoors, and stop watering.

Cut old, yellowed or dried foliage from the bulbs and allow them to rest in darkness for a month before you repot them in fresh soil and resume watering to initiate blooms.

All plants eventually need to be repotted or transplanted, so avoid purchasing pot-bound plants that have roots twining about in the container. Before purchasing any plant, remove the container and examine the roots. Repeat this procedure periodically over the life of your plants, because once a plant is pot-bound, its growth may be restricted.

When you purchase a plant, also purchase a container that is slightly larger than the one the plant comes in. If the new pot is more than two inches in diameter larger than the previous pot, the plant will not respond well and the potential for root rot may occur. When using an existing pot, clean it out by applying a solution made from 20-percent bleach mixed with water. Then rinse thoroughly with plain water. You can also wash plant containers in the dishwasher. It's important to clean containers thoroughly to avoid transferring pathogens and insects.

When repotting plants, place potting soil in the bottom of the container. If the drainage hole is large, place a clean, broken, curved shard of another pot, curved side up, over the hole. This promotes drainage and reduces the loss of potting soil through the hole. Don't leave roots exposed to air during the transplanting process. Instead, place the plant in the pot and fill in the sides with new potting soil.

Roots can be teased or pulled out to induce new root growth, but don't leave any gaps of air in the new potting soil area because it may lead to tissue death. Also, take extra care to avoid over-watering your plant until it has regained its vigor, and hold back on fertilizer for two to four weeks after transplanting.

Sharp, non-rusty tools are important for the ease and safety of performing Gardening tasks. A flat file can be used to sharpen the blades on a set of pruning shears or lawn mower. Sharp blades cut rather than tear or bruise tissue. Many diseases enter turfgrass plants through damaged tissue, so a clean cut will help reduce disease problems.

Shovels and hoes also need to have sharp edges to give a good cut. Use a flat file to sharpen the cutting edge of a shovel. This reduces the amount of force you have to use when digging. When you encounter a root, a sharp-edged shovel will allow a nice clean cut to occur, and the root will recover faster. And cutting weeds with a sharp hoe requires less work, and it's easier on the hands and back.

When sharpening with a flat file, wear a pair of gloves to reduce the risk of cutting yourself on the sharpened edge. Long, diagonal strokes of the file give a more uniform cutting edge to the tool than short strokes in one spot on a blade. If a bench grinder is available, the sharpening goes much more quickly.

After use, push shovel blades into a five-gallon bucket of oily sand so rust won't form on the blades. Wipe pruners and other cutting equipment with an oily rag to prevent rust formation. Be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges.

When sharpening gasoline or electric-powered tools, be sure to disconnect the spark plug and unplug electric tools from the power source.

Fall leaves are a valuable resource because they keep garden soil productive. By following a few tried and true composting techniques, you can optimize fall-leaf composting.

The minimum size for compost bins is three feet by three feet by three feet. Bins larger than six feet across may restrict oxygen infiltration and slow decomposition.

It's best to mix some nitrogen into the leaves as you add them to the compost Leaves are high in carbon, which makes great compost, but they're comparatively low in nitrogen, and that's what decomposing bacteria feed on. You can add nitrogen in the form of fertilizer or fresh green organic matter. Just add one-quarter to one-half cup of standard lawn fertilizer per bushel, or add one part dry leaves with two parts fresh grass clippings or similar green Garden debris. If you use a fertilizer, be sure to select one that doesn't contain any weed killers.

As you add leaves to the compost, moisten them until they're the consistency of a wet sponge. Check the compost regularly and water to maintain adequate moisture content. Moisture is slow to soak through a leaf pile and is essential for decomposition. Be careful not to over-water, because you don't want the leaves to be soggy.

Whole leaves are better for compost than leaves that are shredded or mulched with a lawn mower. Finely chopped leaves may pack down excessively in the compost bin, restricting oxygen infiltration necessary for decomposition.

By following these simple guidelines, you can produce fall-leaf compost by late spring. An unattended a pile of leaves may take two to three years to decompose.

Colorado's relatively warm days and cold nights, extreme temperature fluctuations and drying winds can wreak havoc with many of our commonly planted perennials.

Generally, after the first hard frost, the foliage of most perennials starts to die and wither. There are two philosophies on when to remove the dead foliage. One approach is to immediately remove the dead foliage. Many perennials will suffer no harm as a result, as long as you exercise great care when applying mulch. The other approach is waiting until spring to remove dead foliage. Always remove diseased foliage to discourage the spread of leaf-spot diseases and fungal problems.

Dehydration is a common problem when snowless winters occur. A layer of mulch several inches thick helps retain soil moisture. This mulch should be coarse and loose to permit air movement to roots. Root tissues continue to metabolize in the winter and requires oxygen for this process to take place. Reduced soil oxygen level increases the aggressiveness of many soil pathogens. Mulches which pack down should be avoided.

Watering at least monthly under dry winter conditions recharges the soil profile with moisture critical to plant survival.

Whether you decide to remove dead foliage in the fall or wait until spring, mulches provide the best protection for your perennials. Many types of mulches are available, and no matter which you choose, there are a few guidelines you should follow.

Mulches do a better job of insulating plants when space is allowed for air to circulate. Mulch that packs down to a dense mass during winter can cause mildews and molds to form. Shredded leaves from deciduous trees and pine boughs from discarded Christmas trees offer great winter protection. A good organic compost used as mulch is also effective and can be used as a soil amendment in the spring.

Established perennials and bulbs benefit from mulches that are applied after the ground freezes, because mulches don't allow soil temperatures to fluctuate as much throughout the winter.

Mulch should not be removed too early in spring or plants will begin to grow too early. Plants located on the south side of a building or wall will emerge sooner than those in other areas, but may be subject to spring frost damage. Some perennials can be damaged by drying winter winds and western sun. Fencing can be used to effectively to protect plantings.

Fall is the best time of year to fertilize Colorado's bluegrass lawns. Promotions about "lawn winterization" may sound mysterious, but there's nothing magical about it. Simply fertilize with nitrogen sometime during late September to early November along the Front Range, and earlier in the mountains.

Apply at least one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. If you're using a natural organic fertilizer like dehydrated poultry waste, you can double the rate. Also double the rate for non-organic fertilizers if this is the only time of year you fertilize, or if you fertilize just one other time in early summer.

Remember that turf must be green when nitrogen is applied. Also, make sure that the soil is moist so the nitrogen will dissolve easily. If not, irrigate and wait a day before fertilizing. Fertilizer applied to very dry, cold soil or to dormant turf won't be used efficiently.

While nitrogen is the most important nutrient, there is no harm if fertilizers also contain some phosphorous or potassium.

The benefits of fall fertilizing include a healthier turf before winter, a healthier root system, and stimulating a turf that greens up earlier in the spring without excessive top growth. Fall fertilization produces dense, green spring lawns without the mowing chores that come with spring fertilization. It should be a part of every good lawn care program.

Mulches are useful additions to landscapes for several reasons. Many plant wastes can be recycled as organic mulches that aid plant growth in several ways.

Mulches reduce weed-growth around plants. Organic mulches, such as wood chips, must be three to four inches thick to effectively keep weeds down. Organic mulch eventually breaks down improving soil, which means you'll need to replace it after several years.

Mulches save water in the Garden because they reduce evaporation from the soil surface. Inorganic mulches, such as rock, can also hold in moisture. Mulches also improve water penetration and minimize soil crusting.

Some people prefer to use spun or woven landscape fabric under wood chips or gravel. Unlike solid sheet plastic, which is no longer recommended, these materials promote air and water exchange within the soil.

Mulches also control temperatures around plants. Organic mulches are cooler than rock mulches in the sun. Rocks absorb and store heat for long periods, reradiating heat to plants.

Organic mulches are often used to alter temperatures in other ways. Applying mulches at planting keeps soil temperatures above freezing, which protects fall transplants and allows a longer period for root growth before winter.

To protect plants from winter drying and frost heaving, apply mulches after the ground is frozen. This protects small bulbs by delaying spring growth until weather is warmer and more settled.

An ideal mulch doesn't compact easily, allows air and water movement into and out of the soil, and breaks down slowly. In addition, the ideal mulch is weed free, attractive, won't blow away and isn't a fire hazard.

When Gardeners say the word bulb, it can mean several things. In horticultural terms, these plant parts refer to the underground food and water-storage organs of certain plant species that are valued for their flowers.

When selecting bulbs, consider several factors before you buy. It's critical to know the time bulbs will flower. Along the Front Range, the exact date depends on the weather, amount of precipitation, the elevation at which bulbs are planted, and planting depth. These variables affect flowering time in your Garden, which might be different than what the label indicates. To avoid disappointment, select various bulbs with a variety of flowering times to lengthen the bloom period in your Garden. Generally speaking, crocus, snowdrops, species tulips, dwarf iris and Siberian squill are very early, reliable bloomers. Early to late-spring bloomers include most varieties of grape hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, fritillaria and common hyacinths. Late spring to early summer bloomers include alliums, bearded iris, and Dutch iris. Careful planning can lead to an outstanding bloom display from early March through early June.

Plant bulbs deeper than seed, usually three to four times the diameter of the bulb. Bulbs prefer a sandy or clay loam soil, but be sure to plant bulbs two inches deeper in sandy soil.

Do some research on the required growing conditions before you make a purchase, especially when planting in wet soils, very dry soils, or shady areas. For successful flowering, be sure to chose the best plant for the site.

Finally, check the size and condition of the bulb. Always select the largest bulbs of each variety, because there is a direct correlation between bulb and flower size. The damaged and deteriorated bulbs found on clearance racks are not a bargain. A bulb should be plump, firm and heavy for its size. Avoid bulbs that show evidence of mold, scars, cuts, soft spots or blemishes, or appear withered or dried out. Two exceptions to this rule are anemone and ranunculus, which naturally look totally shriveled and shrunken.

After selecting your bulbs, plant them as soon as possible. If you must postpone planting, store bulbs loosely in paper bags in the refrigerator. Be sure to keep them in a separate bin from fruits and vegetables so they won't be damaged by the ethylene gas of ripening fruit.

In the late summer and early autumn, many nurseries and Garden centers will discount their inventory of trees and shrubs. While selection may be limited, these sales are a good opportunity to purchase fruit trees and landscape trees at reduced prices.

Fall may be the best time of the year to plant nursery stock in other parts of the country, but it is second best in Colorado, behind spring. When planting in the fall, be sure to finish by the end of October. Some deciduous trees are less likely to transplant successfully in the fall. As a general rule, evergreens are at the most risk when planted in the fall because their needles are exposed to the elements in the fall and winter.

Mulching and winter watering will increase a new tree's chances of survival. After planting a tree, water it deeply. Then, mulch with a three-inch layer of wood chips, pine needles or a similar material. Mulch to at least a foot beyond the area of the tree's rootball. Water the tree again to settle the mulch.

Check the soil moisture under the mulch weekly to determine if water is needed. From December through March, water transplants on warmer days when three weeks have elapsed without snow or snow cover remaining on the ground.