Remember to read seed packets, catalogs and plant tags for the correct spacing between new plants. If planted more densely than recommended, bedding plants may not develop fully and may be more susceptible to insects and diseases because they are competing for air, water, nutrients and sunlight.

Prepare the soil for planting by adding a one-inch layer of organic material and till it in to a depth of six to eight inches. Inspect the seedlings and carefully remove them from the pots. The soil around the plant should be moist. If the plant is pot-bound, with roots encircling the outside of the soil, gently score the root ball on all sides with a sharp knife. Try to keep the root ball intact and make only shallow cuts. These cuts will encourage rooting.

Dig a small hole for the seedling. Place the plant deep enough in the soil to cover the top of the root ball with one-quarter of an inch of soil. If the top of the root ball is exposed, the plant will dry very quickly and could die. Move soil around the plant and firm the soil, but do not pack it down.

Water with a gentle spray to wet the entire area without puddling or eroding the soil around the transplants. Keep plants watered to develop healthy, large, leafy plants that have deep roots, can withstand the heat of summer and bloom or produce a bountiful harvest.

For "Organic soil amendments" refer to message number 1604.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Drip Irrigation for Home gardens
• Vegetable garden: Soil Management and Fertilization
• Choosing a Soil Amendment
• Perennial gardening
• Vegetable Planting Guide
• Vegetable garden Hints
• Block Style Layout in Raised Bed

Apartment dwellers may have only a small balcony or sunny window with room for a few small pots. Condominium dwellers might have a patio, but they may be limited by covenants, shade from trees and other restrictions.

Renting a house or duplex may offer more room, but renters may need to convince their landlord to allow them to maintain a garden.

To convince a reluctant landlord, mention gardening classes you have taken, show photos of past gardens, and offer to put an agreement in writing. Include details about what you will plant and how you will maintain it. You'll also want to be clear that you will bear the financial responsibility. Promise to plant an easily maintained garden and to restore it to its original condition if you move. Avoid water gardens, invasive groundcovers, vines and exotic, hard-to-maintain plants.

Container gardening often is the easiest solution for renters. Pots and planter boxes come in many shapes and sizes, take up little space, are movable and easily maintained. Check container gardening books for ideas.

If container gardening isn't appealing or you're unable to convince your landlord to let you maintain a garden, you might consider other options. For example, find out if your neighborhood has a community garden, offer your gardening skills to an elderly homeowner, or volunteer your time to the local gardening club or botanic gardens. Indeed, there are many ways to realize the benefits of gardening for yourself and others!

For "Container gardening: basics" refer to message number 1001.
For "Container gardening: containers" refer to message number 1102.
For "Container gardening: designing" refer to message number 1114.

Plant 100 square feet or less per person in a household, and grow the easiest Crops the first year. Later, as skills develop, add more difficult Crops such as small fruits and perennial vegetables, and add more area to the garden's size.

When selecting plants of a first garden, keep in mind several suggestions. Plant bush beans for early pods, or pole beans for a later crop with more flavor. Early cabbage varieties produce small heads that taste great cooked or in salads. Try purple or one of the new white cauliflower varieties that don't require blanching.

In heavy soils, try half-long varieties of carrots. Grow the disease-resistant long, slender cucumbers for salads. Plant both leaf lettuce and head lettuce for a season-long crop. Plant onions from seed in mid-March using long-day yellow or red varieties. For peas, try the early, dwarf Alaska variety and the later, rambling, sweet type. Plant summer squash on the edge of the garden so it can spread on uncultivated ground, or grow bushy winter squash that take less garden space. Give plants plenty of room to grow so they are not crowded. Grow corn in square blocks rather than in rows and try hand pollinating so all of the ears develop well. And, plant half a tomato crop in an early variety and the other half in later maturing variety for continuous harvest.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s) or Master gardener garden Notes.

• Vegetable Planting Guide
• Vegetable garden Hints
• Block Style Layout in Raised Bed
• Cucumbers, Pumpkins, Squash and Melons
• Xeriscaping: Trees and Shrubs

Among the cool season vegetables there are five that live from one growing season to the next and are known as perennials. They are asparagus, chives, horseradish, rhubarb and shallots. Once established, these vegetables can produce for many years.

Along the Front Range of Colorado, asparagus harvest begins in May. Chives can be used for flavoring salads and grow from April until December. Horseradish roots can be dug whenever the ground isn't frozen. The first rhubarb stalks can be pulled in June and continue as long as there's a surplus of large stalks. Shallots form clumps as they grow and can be harvested anytime the ground isn't frozen by breaking out part of a clump and dividing the bulbs.

While it's true that these perennials can produce from year to year, they won't last long if abused. Be sure they're kept free from weeds and pests, and that they're fertilized correctly. Cool-season vegetables shouldn't be shaded or walked on, and need water only when their soil seems dry a few inches below the surface.

When harvesting, always leave enough of the plant so it can survive to produce again. Since it's hard to estimate how much can be harvested without hurting these vegetables, harvest small amounts and watch the plant closely afterwards.

Most other cool-season vegetables only are grown for one season and are known as annuals. They are either root or leaf Crops. Radishes are the earliest of the root Crops, followed by beets, carrots, turnips and rutabagas. Parsnips, another root crop, mature just before the ground freezes and is the only one of this group that can last through the winter. In fact, its quality is improved by spending the winter in the ground.

Broccoli, cauliflower, onions, kohlrabi, potatoes and peas, along with the previously mentioned perennials, leaf and root Crops, are the cool season Crops for Colorado. These Crops should receive top priority in high altitude gardens and for extending the season for gardens along the Front Range.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Vegetable garden Hints
• Vegetable Planting Guide
• Vegetable garden: Soil Management and Fertilization

An easier way to establish a buffalo grass lawn is to plant it from sod. Buffalo grass sod can be planted from late-May through late-August.

Buffalo grass will grow best at elevations lower than about 6,500 feet and in very sunny areas. It is advisable to look at an established buffalo grass lawn before you decide to plant your own. Compared with Kentucky bluegrass, buffalo grass lawns need less water, fertilizer and mowing. But, buffalo grass lawns tend to go dormant and turn brown earlier in the fall and become green later in the spring than Kentucky bluegrass.

Infested branches typically break at the crotch, where they join the trunk. The first external sign of injury is the production of popcorn-like pitch masses at wound sites. They are the size of golf balls and resemble clusters of small, pale colored grapes.

Zimmerman pine moth caterpillars overwinter in cocoons under bark scales. They tunnel into trees in late April and early May. By late spring, they tunnel to the bases of branches where they create pitch masses. By July, larvae reach full size and pupate within the pitch masses. Adults emerge from cocoons in late July and August. Eggs hatch into the caterpillars that overwinter under the bark.

The moth is most vulnerable during late summer and again in spring when they are exposed and active on the bark. A drenching trunk spray applied in mid-April and August should kill larvae before they enter trunks. Permethrin, applied as a drenching, trunk spray in mid-April and August, should kill larvae before they enter trunks.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Zimmerman Pine Moth

Most Colorado lawns are comprised of cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass or turf-type tall fescue. These cool-season grasses benefit the most from fall applications of fertilizer, usually sometime in October or November.

Applying a high-nitrogen fertilizer in April may cause grass to grow too fast, before roots can grow to support the lawn. This makes a lawn less tolerant of summer heat.

In most cases, an application of fertilizer in April is not needed when lawns were fertilized the previous fall or clippings are returned to the lawn. If an April application appears to be necessary, apply the fertilizer at a reduced rate. This may be followed by an early June application, a late August application, and the most important application in October or November.

Cool-season grasses should not be given high-nitrogen fertilizers during the heat of summer. It causes excessive, lush growth that requires more frequent mowing and watering, and the lawn becomes more susceptible to insects and diseases.

Conversely, warm-season grasses, such as buffalo grass and blue grama, should be fertilized in late June or July, when most growth occurs.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Lawn Care

For more information, see the following Planttalk Colorado™ script(s).

• Fall lawn fertilization: during drought

After the herbicide has done its job, remove the dead plant material, old roots and large rocks. Then loosen the soil with a spading fork and add two to three inches of sphagnum peat moss, or some other well-composted organic matter. Do not use poorly composted manures or native peats because they provide salts, which are detrimental to normal bulb growth.

Fertility is as important to bulbs as it is to any other plant. Bulbs that are planted for a long duration, such as daffodils, require a slow-releasing phosphorus, such as simple super phosphate 0-20-0. Apply fertilizer according to soil-test results or at a rate of five to six pounds per 100 square feet, which is about one teaspoon per bulb. Add a general purpose inorganic fertilizer, such as a 5-10-5 to provide all additional nutritional bulb needs.

Bulbs should be planted deeper than seed, usually three to four times the diameter of the bulb. Bulbs prefer a sandy or clay loam soil, but be sure to plant them two inches deeper when you plant them in sandy soil. After the ground freezes, cover the bed with three to four inches of mulch to prevent frost heaving. Gradually remove the mulch over a period of several weeks starting in late March or early April.

For "How to force bulbs indoors" refer to message number 1319.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Vegetable garden: Soil Management and Fertilization
• Choosing A Soil Amendment

However, you can apply nitrogen to the soil surface because it moves down to the roots where it's needed. Nitrogen can be applied late in fall or early spring. In spring, nitrogen should be applied before bud break. The amount applied depends on the type of fruit tree and its growth status. Trees should be fertilized with enough nitrogen to promote optimal, annual shoot growth.

For non-bearing apple trees, shoot growth should be between 24 to 36 inches; for pears, 12 to 26 inches; and for peaches, 16 to 24 inches. In fruit-producing apple trees, shoot growth should be between 12 to 24 inches; for pears, 6 to 12 inches; and for peaches, 10 to 18 inches.

Growth at less than the recommended rates results in reduced fruiting wood and less fruit production. If you're starting a fertilizer program for stone fruits such as peaches or apricots, apply nitrogen to the soil around the trees at the rate of one-eighth pound for every one inch of trunk diameter. Take the trunk-diameter measurement one foot above ground level. With apples or pears, apply one-tenth pound of nitrogen for every one inch of trunk diameter.

The amount of nitrogen needed is determined by the previous year's growth. If more growth is needed, increase the amount of nitrogen. If too much growth occurred, it's best to reduce or eliminate nitrogen. Also, it's important to keep records of how much of a specific nutrient you apply each year.

Fruit trees in lawn areas may get adequate nitrogen from applications of lawn fertilizer. In some cases, fruit trees grow too much as a result of excess water and fertilizer they receive from lawns. Do not apply "weed-and-feed" products because they contain herbicides that may be harmful to fruit trees. If fruit production is desired in these instances, reduce the frequency of watering and the amount of fertilizer applied to the lawn.

Excessive pruning also will stimulate shoot growth and should be avoided.

For "Organic vs. manufactured fertilizers" refer to message number 1619.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Vegetable garden: Soil Management and Fertilization
• Choosing a Soil Amendment
• Organic Fertilizers
• Organic Materials as Nitrogen Fertilizers
• Nitrogen Sources and Transformations

Renewal pruning solves the problem of decreased bloom, as well as problems caused by oyster shell scale and borer insect buildup. Remove the oldest, thickest stems at the base to prune away insect problems. The remaining young stems will grow and produce the desired blooms. January to mid-March is the best time to prune.

Consider removing one-third of the older stems this year, another third the following year, and the remaining third the next year. This is the best way to maintain lilacs and many other shrubs. This method produces a better looking shrub than tip pruning alone, which should be done only to shape the shrub.

Older, overgrown lilacs may require drastic rejuvenation pruning, which means cutting off every stem four inches above the ground. Resilient lilacs will grow two to three feet the first season.

Thinning stems so that only a few healthy ones remain eliminates competition among them. From then on, yearly renewal pruning will keep your lilac blooming.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Pruning Flowering Shrubs

First, wound closure is most rapid if it's done just prior to when new shoots emerge.

Second, there are few insects and disease spores to infest pruning cuts.

Third, deciduous trees have dropped their leaves, so it's easier to see what you're pruning!

Trees such as elm, maple, walnut and birch are "bleeders" when pruned in late winter to early spring. This oozing sap is annoying when it drips on cars and sidewalks. There is disagreement as to whether the oozing is harmful to trees. It is thought that oozing might interfere with the closure of pruning cuts. Oozing is reduced if these tree species are pruned in the fall. However, fall is probably the least desirable time of year to prune most trees. Pruning cuts close more slowly in the fall than in any of the other seasons.

For "Pruning mature fruit trees" refer to message number 1210.
For "Training young fruit trees" refer to message number 1211.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Training and Pruning Fruit Trees
• Pruning Mature Shade Trees

Light intensity refers to the amount of light reaching a plant and is measured in foot-candles. Plants have differing requirements for light intensity. Some perform best under high light levels, while other plants prefer lower levels. High light intensity is considered to be 1000 or more foot-candles, medium is 500 to 1000 and low is 50 to 500. Few plants can tolerate light intensities below 50 foot candles.

High light intensity occurs within two feet of south-facing windows from October through March and within two feet of east or west-facing windows all year. These locations have at least four to six hours of daily sun. Medium light occurs within two feet of north-facing glass from April through September and two to six feet back or one foot to the side of an east or west-facing window. Typically, ten to fourteen hours per day of fluorescent office lighting is considered medium light.

Low light is found within two feet of north-facing glass from October through March and 2 to 6 feet back from, or 1 foot to the side of south-facing glass from April through September. Six to 10 feet back from, or 1 foot to the side of south-facing glass from April through September is considered low light. By moving plants to appropriate locations within the home, any number of light intensities can be achieved.

Avoid placing plants so that foliage is touching glass or cold winter and hot summer temperatures can both be damaging.

Consider artificial light when light levels are too low. Fluorescent lights, when combined with incandescent light, provide a good balance for plant growth. For every four feet of fluorescent tube use one 40 watt incandescent bulb.

Plants that grow well in high light include: amaryllis, avocado, bromeliads or members of the citrus family. Medium light plants include: African violets, coleus, weeping figs and orchids. Low light choices are cast iron plant, spider plant, piggy-back plant, fittonia and some ferns.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Managing Houseplant Pests

For more information, see the following Planttalk Colorado™ script(s).

• Amaryllis
• Avocado
• Houseplants: artificial light
• Norfolk Island pine
• Philodendron
• Schefflera
• Christmas cactus
• Croton
• Planttalk Colorado™ Houseplants

When cold weather returns, bulb growth naturally slows. Flower buds are at the greatest risk, and may be damaged if temperatures drop below 26°F. Foliage can also be damaged. Bulbs planted near a foundation, especially on south or west sides, or on a south-facing slope, are most susceptible to early emergence and freeze injury.

To prevent early emergence, avoid planting bulbs against foundations or south-facing exposures. Existing plantings on susceptible sites should be mulched in the fall after the ground has frozen. Use a six-inch layer of organic material, such as straw or shredded leaves.

When cold weather threatens, consider cutting flower stems if buds are showing color for enjoyment in the home. Leave the majority of the foliage on the plant for photosynthesis, food production and storage for next year's blooms.

Mite-damaged turf becomes straw-colored in irregularly shaped patches while the rest of the lawn turns green. Damage most often occurs on south- or west-facing exposures, especially if sloped, where turf is more likely to be drought-stressed.

Clover mite damage almost always occurs within 5-10 feet of a south- or west-facing building, fence, tree or other vertical structure. These mites are extremely small and hide in the turf when disturbed, making them very difficult to see. The injured or dead turf often becomes apparent long after they have ceased feeding in the lawn and it is too late to control them.

Some insecticides labeled for lawns with active ingredients bifenthrin or lambda-cyhalothrin (pyrethroid insecticides) may or may not provide control of these cool-season mites. Winter and early spring watering of suspected mite “hotspots” provide the most effective preventive and curative control. Insecticide applications are much less effective if not accompanied by irrigation.

If infested turf areas don’t recover in late spring or if turf recovery is patchy and thin, the damaged areas are candidates for lawn renovation. Refer to Fact Sheets 5.505 (Clover and other Mites of Turfgrass) and 7.241 (Renovating the Home Lawn) for additional information.

To discourage voles, rake these areas lightly and then continue with a normal fertilization, mowing and watering schedule. The tunnels should disappear as the grass begins to grow in the spring.

Populations of voles are cyclical, so they may come again for a couple of years and then disappear for a number of years. If they are causing extensive damage to trees, shrubs and lawns, use baited mousetraps to reduce their population.

Care should be taken when using traps where young children and pets have access to them.